Don’t tow the car to the dealer or mechanic. We come to you, we repair ignition locks onsite. Call now for a quote!
We offer prompt & reliable, onsite car ignition repair services, providing a solution to all your ignition problems. As The Ignition Lock Experts in Melbourne, our highly trained auto locksmiths will quickly get you on the road again.
We know our ignition lock repairs and we give quotes over the phone depending on the time, location, make and model. Normally, the price quoted will be the price charged. However, auto ignition repair is not a simple thing and there are many things that cannot be diagnosed over the phone and have to be discovered onsite. If we get onsite and find that we are unable to affect the repairs for the price quoted, then you’re under no obligation to accept the new quote or to pay for our attendance to the old one. Simply put, if we don’t get the results promised for the price quoted, then you don’t pay anything.
Nothing we do is kept a secret − everything is made to be transparent as possible. We do not arbitrarily decide to replace your locks just to make more money. You’re more than welcome to observe the entire process of the repairing your ignition. If we have to do repairs of “ABC”, or replace it because of “XYZ”, then it will be carefully explained and shown to you why such an action is the best option to take.
Need prompt assistance? Call us anytime to speak directly with our specialist auto locksmith. It won’t be answered by some bozo in a call centre that will have to call you back or divert you thru to tech support or spare parts. Our phones are answered by qualified auto locksmiths who personally do the job and can intelligently discuss all the options regarding your ignition lock problem.
We always will start by asking the make, model and year of the car. If you’re unsure, please have the number plate on hand when you call. We have the digital resources that enable us to determine the exact details of the car from the numberplate as long as it is registered in Victoria. Some states outside of VIC do not have registration / VIN database open to the public.
We will ask some very specific questions regarding the ignition lock & key.
Does the key go in? Does it turn at all? How far does it turn? What are the lights on the dashboard doing? Is the steering unlocked? When did you last successfully use the ignition lock? Is the car in the sun or the shade? Is the key worn? Have you tried any other keys? Do you have any other keys? What else have you tried?
Some of these questions may sound silly and might not make much sense to you, but a good auto locksmith who knows his shit will know just what to ask when trying to diagnose an ignition lock fault over the phone, so try to answer them as accurately as possible. We might even ask for photos depending on the situation.
From our years of experience, we’ve found there are certain makes & models of car that require ignition repair or ignition key replacement more frequently. Here is a list of the 5 most common and a description of the faults and repairs.
✔️ Key won’t go in?
✔️ Key wont come out?
✔️ Key won’t turn?
✔️ Key only turns a little bit?
✔️ Key difficult to insert?
If you are experiencing any of these common Honda Ignition Lock Problems
Honda switched to this type of High Security 4 Track Sidewinder Key all the way back in 2003 and have installed these types of locks in nearly ALL MODELS of Honda sold in Australia all the way up to 2017. This includes; Accord, Civic, Jazz, CR-V, CR-Z, Insight, Accord Euro, City, Legend, Integra, and probably a few more that I’ve forgotten for now.
Honda makes great cars and bikes in general, and their security is no exception. When the locks are new, they are excellent. But they got a little carried away, and turned each tumbler in the lock into two, making it even more mechanically complex and prone to failure.
Worn Tumblers
These little tumblers have an incredibly small bearing surface (belly) that rides on the edge of the cut key every time that the key goes in and out and while you are driving along bumpy roads.
In the TOP LEFT IMAGE are brand new tumblers as they come out of the factory.
In the TOP RIGHT IMAGE, there are “used” tumblers on the left and “new” tumblers on the right. The ones on the left have been worn down from repeated insertion and withdrawal of the key, and it is quite easy to spot the difference between them
The BOTTOM LEFT IMAGE shows the result of these tumblers getting worn down over time and subsequently not sitting at the correct height when the key is inserted so the key doesn’t turn.
Worn Keys
The other problem that occurs with these ignition locks is that the key gets too worn to operate the bellies of the tumblers properly. The tumblers don’t get picked up by the track of the key upon insertion, but instead they get squished against the side of their chambers, and scratch their way up the key, inducing further wear on key & wafer as the customer repeatedly & forcefully, tries to force the key into the lock.
If your Honda key is difficult to insert, STOP NOW. You are only doing more damage to the key and the wafers. Instead, grab a little INOX / RP7 / WD40 lubricant or equivalent and give it a LITTLE spray, don’t drown it. Then, hold your tongue on the roof of your mouth, cross your fingers, whisper the sacred prayer to Odin, and GENTLY try again to insert your key to see if it works. If it doesn’t go in smoothly, don’t force it! If it does, great, you’ve just bought yourself another day / week / month to get it fixed. Don’t wait for it to happen again though. Get it fixed ASAP.
If your key is difficult to insert into the lock, then you need a new key cut by code also, in order to prevent further damage to the lock and new tumblers once it is repaired.
Close up of the difference between a WORN HONDA KEY on the RIGHT and a NEW HONDA KEY on the LEFT. The key on the left has crisp, sharp, angles on its cuts with smooth and straight 90 degree corners, while the key on the right is curved and rounded and not sharply defined on its edges. If your key looks more like the one on the right than the one on the left, then you probably need a new key also.
Up until just recently, the only spare parts available for these were OEM from Honda and they were prohibitively expensive. So we used to repair them where we could, and only replace what we couldn’t repair. In early 2019 we stumbled across a reliable supply of aftermarket Honda Ignition Cylinders, which are as good as the OEM Honda, and are of a reasonable price. Simply put, we don’t repair these anymore. We only replace them with new.
In order to remove the existing, faulty, Honda Ignition Barrel, we first must remove the plastic cowling around the ignition lock.
Then all the cables and surrounding aerial immobiliser reader ring must be removed also.
Then if we are extremely lucky we may be able to remove the roll pin that holds the barrel in without having to remove the whole housing. But if the gods are angry, and the roll pin won’t come out, then then the shear-off bolts will have to be removed.
In order to make it harder for thieves, these pesky little things have been specifically designed to be very difficult to remove. However we have a very special technique that involves years of experience, finesse, and brute force. We’ll get them out, sans airbag explosion, we guarantee it.
When the pesky shear-off bolts are removed, the entire Ignition Lock Housing will come away from the steering column, and we can then take it to the workshop in the van to remove the faulty Ignition Barrel. It’s a lot easier to remove when standing up on the work bench in a vice as opposed to being upside down underneath the steering wheel in the hot sun.
Once we’ve got the barrel out, we used to disassemble it to its constituent components, and replace the worn out and faulty wafers. These days we give it to the client as something to throw at passing Public Servants seeing as we wouldn’t want to waste perfectly good rocks on one of them.
Nowadays we take one of our New Honda Ignition Cylinders, and we assemble it using the appropriate tumblers to your key, and we then install it into the ignition housing and bang in the roll pin.
If the housing has been removed from the column, then we have to refit it to the column, and re attach all switches, wires and the aerial for the reader ring for the immobilizer.
If needed, we’ll also cut a new key. All of our vans stock Honda Key Shells which allows us to cut a new key blade/shell only, and simply transfer all the essential electronic components of your old key (with the worn out blade) to the new key & shell which has been cut to code.
Whatever the problem with your Honda Ignition Lock, you can be assured that we can get you rolling again in no time without you having to tow the car or wait for days at the mechanic.
If we supply & cut new keys / shells at the same time as the repair, then we give a LIFETIME WARRANTY on the repairs and keys, for as long as you own the car. If you have any problems with the key or the ignition, for as long as you own the car, we will come and fix it again for free.
Sometimes the state of the key has absolutely nothing to do with why you’re having problems, but a worn Honda Key is usually a significant contributor to the problem, often even the main cause. If you do or do not require a new key, you will be told by our locksmith who will be able to show you why. We don’t replace keys just to make extra money on the job.
If we replace the cylinder only, then we offer a 12 MONTH WARRANTY under the same terms. If you have any problems with it again within 12months, we will come and fix it again for free.
Prices for Honda Ignition Replacement, start from $350 and come with a 12 MONTH WARRANTY.
For only $50 extra we can cut you a new Honda Key Shell & you get a LIFETIME WARRANTY.
You can’t beat that anywhere.
Call now.
✔️ Key won’t turn?
✔️ Key won’t go in?
✔️Car won’t turn off?
✔️Key turns but no dash lights come on?
✔️Key turns on and back but car or dash lights stay on?
Most commonly:
✔️ Worn lock tumblers / Worn key;
✔️ Broken tail piece that connects the lock to the electrical switch;
✔️Broken retaining pin thru side of the barrel;
In order to remove the existing faulty barrel, it is necessary to turn the ignition lock to ACC. This is where most DIYer’s and mechanics get stuck. No matter the problem with yours & no matter how long you have been trying, we will get it turned & removed.
We used to repair these ignition locks for slightly less than replacement, but we found that replacement is far more reliable than repair, and costs only marginally more.
We then take a BRAND NEW OEM Barrel from GM; “key it up” to your original key, and install it into the ignition lock housing.
To “key it up” means you won’t need a new key to start the car, and can still use the old key that’s held together with chewing gum and duct tape.
However if you do indeed a new key, or simply want a spare – remote headed GM Commodore keys are $149 cut and programmed onsite if we’re already there repairing your ignition.
This is by far the most common ignition lock we replace. At a recent staff meeting, our 4 senior locksmiths (10years+) were asked to estimate how many of these they had replaced in their careers. They all said “well over 100”.
We give a LIFETIME WARRANTY on every Commodore Ignition Repair Job done. Yes that’s right, a LIFETIME WARRANTY. We expressly guarantee that for as long as you continue to own the car and use the same keys, if you ever have any problems with your ignition lock again ever, we will come out and replace it AGAIN, free of charge. You can’t beat that.
Prices for Holden Ignition Replacement start from as low as $330 fully installed.
Call Now.
If you are having any of the above Toyota Ignition Lock Problems, DON’T TOW IT – WE CAN HELP YOU! This type of key & ignition lock is used across nearly all models in the Toyota range since 1998 and we have extensive experience repairing these locks.
Call 0435 247 999
The 2 most common causes:
Back in 1996, Toyota thought it would be a good idea to take the standard lock tumbler (left) and cut it down the middle to make 2 independent tumblers from it(right).
Sounds good? More security wafers = more security right? Possibly, but in our experience, it just equals more Toyota Ignition Locks that break down, especially in work vehicles subject to dust, like 4WDs,Vans & Utes.
These locks get filled with gunk over the years, and the small bearing surface on the wafers and key gets worn down by pushing the key in and out. This causes these split wafers inside to get jammed preventing either the key from going in, or the barrel from turning.
Worn Keys can be the cause of the problem in the 1st place. As you drive around with a proverbial brick hanging off your key ring, the weight of the keys pulls them down against the inside of the lock. Then when you go over those speed humps at pace with scant regard for your tyres, suspension, baby in the back seat or your poor keys, your key ring jiggles up and down, over and over again, shaving a little by little off the key until the result is like in this image on the left. A worn down key doesn’t lift up the tumblers to the correct heights and therefore makes it difficult if not impossible to turn the ignition lock.
The result is like in this image above. A worn down key doesn’t lift up the tumblers to the correct heights and therefore makes it difficult if not impossible to turn the ignition key in the ignition lock.
These split wafers have been installed in literally thousands of Toyotas in hundreds of different models around the world. All of these ignition barrels and housings are different and are not interchangeable between the models so that the Camry Ignition Lock won’t fit into the Hilux Ignition Barrel won’t fit into the Land Cruiser Housing and so forth. So we must carry what spare keys, parts, and tumblers that we can, and make it work with some good old fashioned auto locksmithing.
1st, the barrel must be turned to the ACC position to allow disassembly of the lock. If it won’t turn, then it makes removal challenging to say the least. So as a 1st step we will lube and jiggle your key with persistence for a good while in an effort to get it to turn at least once. If it turns once, we can skip the (long and painful) step where we have to use our super-secret squirrel technique to remove the whole ignition lock housing from the column, by unscrewing the shear off bolts that are designed NOT to be unscrewed.
Once we’ve got the barrel out, we can disassemble to its finest pieces and replace the worn and jammed tumblers in the barrel, and cut a new key if needed.
Fortunately, all our vans are stocked with OEM and aftermarket Toyota Key blades & Shells, and are equipped to cut them by code, onsite, by the roadside. We simply transfer all the essential electronic components of your old key (with the worn out blade) to the new keyblade & shell.
Sometimes the state of the key has absolutely nothing to do with why you’re having problems, but a worn Toyota key is sometimes a significant contributor to the problem, often even the main cause. If you do or do not require a new key, you will be honestly told by our locksmith onsite who will be able to show you why. We don’t replace keys just to make extra money on the job.
If we supply & cut new keys / key shells at the same time as the repair, then we give a LIFETIME WARRANTY, for as long as you own the car. If you have any problems with the key or the ignition of your Toyota, for as long as you own the car, we will come and fix it again for free.
If you do NOT NEED a new key and we repair the barrel only, then we offer 12 MONTH WARRANTY under the same terms. If you have any problems with it again within 12months, we will come and fix it again for free.
Prices for Toyota Ignition Repair only start from $350 and come with a 12 MONTH WARRANTY.
Get a new Toyota Key Cut for only $50 extra, and get a LIFETIME WARRANTY.
You can’t beat that.
Call Now.
✔️ Key turns but car won’t start?
✔️ Key doesn’t spring back?
✔️ Dashboard lights doing strange things?
✔️ Car won’t turn off?
If the key will still physically turn in the lock, but the electrics won’t function properly, so the car won’t start; or it won’t stop; or the dash lights start flashing. 99 out of 100 times with theses Ford’s it is the switch & not the lock.
These symptoms are all common and caused by a well-known fault that develops in the ignition switch. If you are having ANY of the above Ford Ignition Lock Problems,
DON’T TOW IT, WE CAN HELP YOU! Call 0435 247 999
Anecdotally, these seem to happen when the weather is hotter as opposed to colder. We do a lot more of these in summers, than in winter.
The original switch housing that holds the switch cap onto it was badly designed and poorly made. The crimping has a tendency to come loose, which allows the plastic wiring harness to fall off the back of the switch and the ball bearings and copper plates to fall out.
This is a VERY common problem that is known to Ford, mechanics, auto electricians and locksmiths alike. All the other solutions involve towing the car to the workshop, removing the steering column, and replacing it with a new one, ($1000-$1500) or one from a wrecker. ($750 – $1250)
This solution leaves still leaves you to tow the car and be off the road for a couple of days at least. Our solution will get you going without towing it.
There are so many of these on Australian roads that we carry spare switch housings for these cars in all of our vans all the time. We fully repair these by the roadside without removal of the column, usually even that same day!
The switch housing that holds the components together is installed at the back of the lock housing which is cast as part of the steering column. The switch housing is “permanently” installed into the lock & steering column by way of roll pins and crimping which make it very difficult to remove if you don’t have the right tools, experience, & luck from the gods.
We have experience, luck from the gods AND a special removal tool specifically designed for this one job only. It’s something like a steering wheel puller, which can get the original switch housing past the permanent roll pins, using a whole lot of elbow grease & the force applied by 2 large machine screws.
Once we have the old switch housing out of the lock housing, we then take the new redesigned switch housing, re-assemble the electrical components inside, along with the wiring harness, and re-crimp the edges over making sure to do a better job than the original.
Then, we take that fully rebuilt ignition switch housing and wiring harness, & install it back into the lock and steering column, re connect all the wires and she is good to go. The end result is a fully functional ignition switch & lock that is superior to the old design.
We are so confident of our Ford Ignition Switch Repairs, that we give a LIFETIME WARRANTY with every repair we do on these cars. If you ever have any problems with the switch, for as long as you own the car, we will come and repair or replace it again for free.
Prices for Ford Ignition Switch Repair start from as low as $495 and come with a LIFETIME WARRANTY.
You can’t beat that.
Call us now.
✔️ Key goes in won’t turn?
✔️ Key turns a little but car won’t start?
✔️ Key won’t turn off?
✔️ Key won’t go in?
DON’T TOW IT, WE CAN HELP YOU! Call 0435 247 999
This common fault develops in the steering lock housing and not in the barrel. It is common enough that a significant number of these cars will develop this fault in their lifetime. Usually the key will go in happily, and will turn just enough to release the steering lock, but turn no further.
Please Note: We are NOT talking about the well-known problem with the Ignition Switch that VW issued an Official recall for. https://www.consumerreports.org/car-recalls-defects/volkswagens-recalled-for-rollaway-risk/
In this section we are specifically talking about the where the barrel, key, or lock housing has failed.
With this family of cars we see a number of different problems that come up. By far the most common is the Ignition Lock Housing which causes the issue. This is the part that locks the steering wheel, holds the ignition lock barrel, and ignition switch together.
One of the internal pins inside this mechanism snaps off from the casting and falls in between the barrel and the locking bar, making it impossible to fully rotate the cylinder and turn the switch. In these cases, our only recommendation is to replace the Ignition Lock Housing.
If it’s not the Ignition Lock Housing, then the next most common problem is in the Ignition Lock Barrel and key. Like all other ignition lock barrels in the world, the key bumps up and down in the lock as you go over bumpy roads and the wear accumulates and eventually manifests itself as an ignition that won’t turn at all. It is not normally (officially) possible to repair & re wafer these barrels. The difficult part is that the electronic reader ring is permanently affixed to the barrel and is very sensitive to damage, so if we want to do repairs then we have to be really careful when removing it. OEM ignition cylinders for these things are around $300 from VW. Cheaper knockoffs are available online, but they are impossible to code to your keys.
This of course depends on the fault. As stated earlier, the Ignition Housings are far more prone to breakdown than the barrel so we will address a typical VW Ignition Housing Replacement.
Like many Auto Ignition Locks Housings, they are held onto the steering column by way of shear off bolts. These annoying little bolts are designed to screw in, and then snap off the heads making them almost impossible to unscrew.
To make things worse, in the VAG designs they are guarded from any angular attack by a series of rings and plates. This means that the only way to get them out is to drill them out, which is very hard because you have the steering wheel, indicators and windscreen in your way. Through years of experience, ancient esoteric knowledge, and a lot of luck, we are able to remove these bolts without major fuckup. Yes we used the word fuck up here, because if this part of the process goes wrong, it’s a major fuckup. We also want to see if you’re actually reading this.
Once we have the bolts out, the Ignition Lock Housing can be removed from the column. If you have been reading up a bit, you would know that the barrel must be turned in order to be peacefully removed from the faulty housing. If you could peacefully turn the barrel, you wouldn’t have needed us in the 1st place. With some gentle persuasion, some ancient secrets of locksmithing and a little bit of luck, the still good barrel can be removed from the faulty housing.
Once we have the still good barrel out of the faulty housing, we install it into the new housing, and re install the housing and complete lock assembly back into the car.
The reason we replace and not repair is not to make more money, but because of the warranty issue.
There are some out there that say they have a reliable method to repair these. And they may have valid claim, but we don’t repair them. Let us explain why.
To fully repair or replace one of these is a heavy & expensive job. The locks are designed to be VERY DIFFICULT to remove, and 80% of the total work is in removing the faulty lock from the car. At the point of re installing, the price between a new and a repaired Ignition lock housing is only about 20% of the total price. We feel that the benefit of the money saved is not worth the risk of the repairs going bad and having to do it again. We give a LIFETIME GUARANTEE on all of our VW Ignition jobs, and if we repaired these instead of replaced them, there is no way we could continue to do that. For those reasons, we only replace them with like for like, genuine VW OEM parts
On all of our VW Ignition Repairs, we offer a LIFETIME GUARANTEE. For as long as you own the car, and are still using the same key, if you ever have any problems, we will come and fix it again for free. You can’t beat that.
Prices for VAG Ignition Barrel Repair start from as low as $440inc GST.
VAG Ignition Housing Replacement starts from $770inc GST.
Compare our price to the dealership, and also factor in the wait time. We know we are significantly cheaper, BEFORE you factor in towing the car and waiting 3 days.
Every model is of VAG group car are different. Give us a call to ask about yours.
This top 5 list is by no means exhaustive, nor is it the limit of the Ignition Locks we repair or replace every single day.
Subaru & Nissan ignition locks tend to be a target for thieves so we commonly see these broken due to deliberate force. Sometimes with broken scissors inside!
Hyundai & Mazda Ignition Locks are also not unknown to break down due to wear & tear.
Ignition Locks of all brands cop a beating.
If your car is not listed here, then don’t stress, we still repair it or know someone who does. If you have any problems with any ignition lock, in any make of car, give us a call to sort it out.
Onsite Auto Ignition Repair in Melbourne
Ignition Lock problems rarely just happen suddenly without warning. If your ignition lock hasn’t failed yet but is playing up, then we urge you to CALL US NOW before it breaks down completely leaves you stranded somewhere, cold, wet and dark.
A jammed ignition lock is a very frustrating experience that can be compounded by where and when it happens. When it breaks, Murphy guarantees that it always happens for maximum inconvenience, exactly when you want to use the car, and usually after you’ve left home & stopped for gas on the way to the airport.
If you are having problems with your ignition lock, then we can’t stress enough that prevention of a complete breakdown is better than the cure.
Where you want us, when you want us!
We can attend where you want us, when you want us, with a genuine Melbourne-wide, 24/7 roadside car ignition repair service. If we’re unable to repair your ignition lock to resolve the issue, we keep stock of the most common ignitions found in Australia, ready for speedy replacement.
We work out of our fully equipped vans and can also cut and program spare keys to your car. If you need a spare key to your car, please visit our car keys page.
Most people don’t think twice when they hop into their car, turn the key in the ignition lock and drive away. They usually have done this hundreds of times without a problem. We forget all about our ignition lock until there is a problem, and then we have to remember two things about them to have some appreciation for what they do for us:
Why is this so? Traditional ignition locks are designed in such a way so the key is trapped in the lock whilst the car is running. While the car is being driven, the road is never perfectly free of bumps, potholes and speed humps, as well as the car continuously accelerating and braking. The forces that these manoeuvres generate transfer through the key and into the components of the lock. Put simply, when you go over a bump in the road, the key will jiggle a little bit. Every time that key jiggles a little bit, it shaves off a tiny sliver of the brass. Now multiply that sliver by every single bump you drove over today. Then multiply that by every single day that you’ve had the car. That’s way more wear and tear than any mere door lock.
Have a look at your car key ring. How many extra keys have you got on there? If you’re anything like the typical Aussie, then you’ll have your car key, and;
Or in other words, you’re hanging a brick off your car keys while driving down bumpy dirt roads.
Over time, those jiggles add up to a key that won’t turn in the ignition and a car that won’t start. Even if you’re not hanging anything off your car key while you’re using it, the car manufacturers will often allege that this is the reason car ignition repair is necessary.
There are no real “cheap” locksmiths, especially not ones that work on Auto Ignition Locks.
Auto ignition repairs cannot be carried out by just anyone claiming to be a locksmith. It’s a highly specialised job that requires extensive knowledge and training, and a dodgy job can seriously affect your safety.
Beware of anyone charging to “come and have a look” at your ignition − especially if they quote you “$45 and up”. Real Auto Locksmiths can tell you with accuracy, what the problem is from your description over the phone and will quote accordingly.
There are a number of conmen scammers in Melbourne and the world, claiming to be auto locksmiths. They quote ridiculously low prices for car ignition lock repair, knowing that usually the client is stuck. They quote low prices to suck the client in, and then they invent complications once they’re on site. The bill just goes up and up, and worse, the client doesn’t even get their lock repaired properly. They get some inferior modification that could lead to the car being stolen, or even worse − the steering wheel locking up at 110km/h on the freeway, leading to a fatal accident.
You do not need that in your life. To avoid these scammers:
The average car ignition repair or lock replacement job takes around 2-3 hours and costs between $250 and $500. If it’s just the key that needs re-cutting, then the price could be as low as $180 in some situations. But it will never ever be as low as $45. Anyone quoting anything significantly under or over these prices is a probably a scammer and we advise you to steer well clear of them or you’ll be sorry. You have been duly warned. Click here for more info.
Every job is different, especially when you factor in location and time of day. For the most common jobs and models, we have a fixed price for repair or replacement while for others, we will need more details. A seemingly faulty ignition on an older car may only need a key cut to code and no repairs at all! This could be as cheap $150 – $200. Holden Commodore Ignition Barrel Replacements start at just $330.00 with a Lifetime Warranty. An oh-so nearly working ignition lock on a VW, Audi or Skoda may need to be fully replaced for around $750-$1000 depending on the make and model.
This may sound expensive, but remember we come to you and fix the problem there and then, negating any need to tow the car to a mechanic and get an Uber or Taxi. When you factor in extra costs like these, our auto ignition repair service ends up much cheaper overall, and with far less hassle.
You will be quoted to repair or replace the ignition lock with the key that you have. Sometimes a new key is the only thing required. If you require ignition key replacement in order to resolve the problem, then this is usually included in the initial price quoted.
Every car is different, and price can depend on the make, model and year, whether its diesel or petrol, and the type of key. There are literally thousands of cars and keys out there, and some are harder to make keys for than others. If you need a spare key, ask our locksmith who will be able to better advise you. You can also check out our car keys page to read more.
That depends on your location and the situation. We have dedicated auto locksmiths that answer our phone and can advise you on how long you’ll have to wait. At the time of booking, you will be given an ETA of the locksmith’s arrival and his direct phone number, confirmed by SMS. This generally will be a 15 minute arrival window, e.g. 20 – 35 minutes depending on location and traffic conditions.
We have technicians and emergency locksmiths in Melbourne available 24 hours per day. However not all ignition lock jobs are possible after hours. There is an extra cost associated with booking us outside of normal working hours. The extra cost depends on your location, the time desired and the situation you want us to work in. For routine after-hours work, you can expect to pay around $50 – $100 extra for the service. For work in the middle of the night, on a Good Friday, a long long way away, the price is on application.
Yes. You can pay with Visa, AMEX or MasterCard. We don’t believe in fake money and are reluctant to even accept plastic, but so many people cannot pay cash anymore, so we are obliged to accept card.
No. All services must be paid for upon completion, unless arranged prior with the management. We accept Cash, Visa, AMEX & MasterCard, both Debit & Credit Cards.
Upon confirmation of the job, you will be notified by text that you have 15 minutes to cancel our service with no charge. After 15 minutes of that text, any cancellation will be charged at $99.00inc GST regardless of whether any work has been performed by us or not. If you have to cancel our service after 15 minutes, it’s no problem for us, but you will be charged $99.00 in GST.
Absolutely. We stand by the quality of our workmanship 100% and guarantee all our work for at least 12 months. Some of our ignition jobs come with a Lifetime Warranty.
Whether you’ve locked yourself out of your home, you’ve lost your car keys, or you simply want to rekey your locks for added security, there’s only one 24 hour locksmith in Melbourne you need to call – 24h Melbourne Locksmith. For an accurate quote and a prompt response from our 24 hour emergency locksmith in Melbourne, call us anytime on